United States

Eclectic Austin Never Misses a Beat

The bats just may be the first clue that Austin is not your typical Texas town. With more than a million Mexican free tailed bats in residence, the city is home to the largest urban bat colony in North America. Every spring, they migrate north from Mexico to Austin, where they give birth and stay through the summer and into early fall. Their favorite hangout is under the Congress Avenue Bridge in the city’s downtown sector. Around sunset, the bats emerge like a black cloud from the bridge’s crevices, blanketing the sky and creating one of the most spectacular and unusual tourist attractions in Texas. It’s a truly unique event that even lifelong residents continue to regard as special no matter how many times they’ve witnessed it. 

Austin is known as the liberal bastion in the heart of Texas and thus it prides itself on being a vibrant and eclectic creative mecca, with a reputation for embracing all that’s unique and different. Nothing is as it seems here. Many of the streets, for example, have two names with one referencing a noted local icon or celebrity. And of course there’s the music scene. As the ‘Live Music Capital of the World’ Austin is acclaimed for its music venues, musicians and numerous music festivals. Until you actually visit the city, however, you can’t grasp the magnitude of the role music plays here. It’s everywhere and encompasses all genres, from Austin-style blues and rock to hip hop, gospel, country and folk. Sixth Street is the town’s ultimate hotspot for music and at night, the clubs and watering holes are packed with enthusiastic revelers. The sounds of live music spill out on the street, creating a very festive and party-like atmosphere akin to the French Quarter in New Orleans.

If you’re looking for some serious boot-stomping tunes, however, you’ll need to head just outside of town to the Broken Spoke, often touted as the last true Texas dance hall. Two-steppers young and old take to the floor to strut their stuff while venerable bands and big name country musicians grace the stage of this celebrated honkytonk. Willie Nelson, Kris Kristofferson, Tex Ritter and George Strait, among others, have all performed here, along with some of the very best local talent such as Alvin Crow, the Derailers, Jimmie Dale Gilmore and Jerry Jeff Walker. It’s a legendary spot, a Texas treasure and Austin tradition that has been featured numerous times on Austin City Limits, the famed television show.

Food is another surprise to visitors, who come expecting the typical Tex-Mex and barbecue to dominate the culinary scene. They soon discover that the palette of the average Austinite has developed over the years and today practically every type of food can be found, including traditional Italian, classic German, nouveau French cuisine and Asian fusion, to name a few.

For restaurant recommendations, ask the locals. There’s a good chance they’ll suggest one of their favorites, the ever-popular Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill. With its innovative take on classic American comfort food and southern/soul style cooking, this eatery satisfies even big city tastes. Specialties include buffalo meatloaf, pecan crusted catfish, Texas flat iron steak, green chili macaroni, southern fried chicken and waffles and broiled rainbow trout with cornbread stuffing. Make sure to order the signature skillet apple pie with maple ice cream for dessert, but know that you’ll need some friends to help you polish off this finger-licking treat. True to Texas form, everything, even the size of the food, is bigger! Locals will also steer you in the direction of Austin’s food trailers. The city has a well-established mobile food vendor scene that offers options galore at prices that are easy on the wallet.

Austin’s variety of cultural attractions is as diverse as its culinary offerings. History buffs and art lovers will enjoy the many museums around town such as the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum, Blanton Museum of Art, AMOA-Arthouse, Harry Ransom Center and Umlauf Sculpture Garden. There are also a number of pieces of public art scattered throughout the city, including Dale Whistler’s famed abstract swooping bat sculpture near the Congress Avenue Bridge.

Make sure not to miss a visit to the Texas State Capitol. This sunset red edifice is the largest of America’s 50 capitol buildings and stands fourteen feet taller than the U.S. Capitol. Upon entrance, you’ll be greeted by life-sized marble statues of Stephen F. Austin and Sam Houston. Further in, you’ll come to the rotunda with the Great Seal surrounded by the six seals of the countries whose flags have flown over Texas (Spain, France, Mexico, Republic of Texas, the Confederacy and the United States). Portraits of the Presidents of the Republic and Governors of the State circle the four public levels of the magnificent rotunda. The star in the dome, approximately 218 feet above, measures eight feet from point to point. It’s an impressive sight, as are the Senate and House of Representatives Chambers, and the Governor’s public reception room with its antique furnishings and artwork.

Another noteworthy attraction is the University of Texas campus, home to over 50,000 rabid Longhorn fans. And if you’re seeking outdoor recreation, head to Lady Bird Lake, where you can hike or bike on the trail that winds around the lake for ten miles in the heart of downtown. It’s also an ideal spot for kayaking and canoeing, with the added bonus of a great view of the skyline.

You’ll learn quickly that as a destination, Austin has it all. And as for its quirks, well, they only make this fiercely soulful and homegrown town that much more interesting and endearing.

 

About the Author

Deborah Stone is a features and travel writer, whose column has covered everything from Washington’s San Juan Islands to exotic Egypt. She enjoys writing about soft adventure experiences, cultural forays, wildlife encounters, romantic getaways and spa retreats. A long-time resident of the Seattle area, she is a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association and the International Food, Wine and Travel Writers Association.

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 Full name: United States of America

 Population: 313.8 million (CIA, 2012)

 Capital: Washington, D.C.

 Largest city: New York City (by population)

 Area: 9.83 million sq.km. (3.79 million sq. mi.)

 Major languages: English, Spanish, other

 Major religions: Protestant, Roman Catholic,  Mormon, Other Christian, Jewish and Muslim

 Monetary unit: U.S. Dollar

 GDP per capita: US $48,100

 Internet domain: .us

 International dialling code: +1

 Source: CIA World Factbook